Process for making wet-skin treatment compositions

ABSTRACT

The invention provides process for making wet skin treatment compositions for use during bathing. The compositions are activated by water and retained efficiently on skin. The compositions impart desirable benefits to skin, are perceived to absorb quickly on wet skin, and leave the skin feeling clean, but non-greasy.

RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application is a continuation in part application of U.S.Ser. No. 09/859,862, filed May 17, 2001 now U.S. Pat. No. 7,192,598entitled “Wet Skin Treatment Compositions”.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a process for making wet-skin treatmentcompositions that are designed for use during bathing to impartdesirable properties to the skin, help maintain its health and protectit from environmental stress. By using aqueous dispersions of specificstructured oil phases which have defined size (wt. average about 20 toabout 500 microns) and which satisfy specific criteria in tests definedherein, applicants have obtained compositions that are activated bywater and retained efficiently on skin. These compositions impart thesedesirable benefits to the skin, are perceived to absorb quickly on wetskin, leaving the skin feeling clean and non-greasy after rinsing. Thus,the consumer obtains the benefit of oily benefit agent from the wash(from oil droplets formed by said process), but does not perceive“greasy” feeling often associated with the benefit agent even afterrinsing.

BACKGROUND OF INVENTION

Compositions that can effectively moisturize and protect the skin duringthe bathing process while the skin is still wet are a potentiallyconvenient, and time saving approach to skin treatment. By bathing ismeant any number of processes commonly used to cleanse the body andface, e.g., showering. To be truly effective, these compositions must besuch that an adequate level of benefit agent is retained on the skinafter rinsing and/or towel drying without at the same time imparting anexcessively oily feel to the wet and dry skin and without leaving itlooking too shiny.

Bath oil which is used by some consumers, must be applied sparinglybecause it does not absorb efficiently on the skin and the excess can bevery oily and messy. Furthermore light bath oils (i.e., oils that have alow viscosity and spread on the skin) absorb more rapidly to overcomethis problem are not very effective in providing longer lastingbenefits.

Conventional oil-in-water emulsion type skin lotions or creams that aredesigned to be applied to dry skin, even water resistant variants, arevery poorly retained when applied to wet skin that is either furtherrinsed or towel dried. By contrast, conventional water-in-oil skinlotions that are designed for application to dry skin are veryefficiently retained on wet skin but are excessively greasy and messyand are not perceived to absorb quickly.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,578,299 to Starch and U.S. Pat. No. 5,928,632 aredirected to gelled mineral oil compositions wherein the mineral oil isgelled by a specific oil soluble copolymers (ethylene/propylene/styrene/and butylene/ethylene/styrene). No mention is made of structured oilswherein the structurant forms a network of finely divided solids, northe criticality of the rheological properties of such networks, or ofthe droplet size. There is certainly no process for making suchcompositions disclosed.

Further, the compositions described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,578,299 to Starchand U.S. Pat. No. 5,928,632 although they deposit on skin, are stillperceived as greasy.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,661,189 to Grieveson et al is directed to an aqueouscleansing and moisturizing composition containing a dispersion of athickened benefit agent. No mention is made of the criticality that thecomposition should have a mildness index as measured by the zeinsolubility test below a specific value (essentially equal to water).Furthermore, there is no mention that the compositions of U.S. Pat. No.5,661,189 must have a foam generation index below a critical value asmeasured by the shake test (essentially non-foaming), and no mentionthat the thickening agents must be limited to structurants thatspecifically form a network of finely divided solids having theproperties defined herein.

Finally, in copending U.S. Ser. No. 09/796,150 entitled “Process forMaking Mild Moisturizing Liquids Containing Large Oil Droplet”,applicants disclose a process for making large oil droplets usingscreens. This application, however, is specific to compositionscontaining surfactant (5 to 35% surfactant) and further does not relateto an oil structured by finely divided solids.

Thus, there remains a need for compositions and process of making suchcompositions that can be applied to wet skin, absorb quickly and areperceived to be effective skin treatments and provide natural lookingand natural feeling skin.

One objective of the current invention is to provide a process of makingcomposition in which the benefit agent efficiently deposits on wet-skinand is retained to a high degree when the skin is subsequently rinsedand dried.

A further objective is to provide a process of making a composition inwhich the oil phase is perceived to rapidly absorb when the compositionis applied and rubbed on the wet skin.

A further objective is to provide a process of making a composition thatis perceived to moisturize and protect the skin while still beingperceived to leave the skin clean and with a natural look and amoisturized feel.

A still further objective of the present invention is to provide aconvenient method to moisturize and treat the skin to yield an enduringeffect that can be accomplished conveniently and routinely in a singlestep as part of the bathing process. Such a process will obviate theneed for separate treatments.

Applicants have found that these and other objectives can be realizedthrough the use of oil-in-water compositions in which the oil phase isspecifically structured through a network comprising finely dividedsolid particle and the structured phase and the composition possesspecific functional properties according to the tests described herein.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The subject invention provides a process for making skin care treatmentcompositions that are designed for use during bathing comprising anaqueous dispersion of one or more water-insoluble skin compatible oilswhich is structured by a stable network of finely divided solidparticles. Provided the composition meets specific requirements in thetests set forth herein, the applicants have obtained compositions thatare perceived to absorb quickly on wet skin, and impart their benefitswhile leaving the skin feeling non-greasy/oily after rinsing and/ordrying. The inventive process comprises mixing various recited phasesand passing through sized screens.

More specifically, the invention provides a wet-skin treatmentcomposition, comprising:

a) an aqueous phase comprising water and a dispersion stabilizer;

b) a structured oil phase comprising:

-   -   i) a liquid, skin compatible oil,    -   ii) a structurant that forms a stable network of finely divided        solids in said liquid skin compatible oil at a temperature below        35° C. and wherein said structurant is present in an amount        sufficient to cause said oil phase to have a viscosity of 100 to        5000 poise measured at 1 sec−1 at 25° C.;

wherein said structured oil phase is capable of being efficientlyretained on the skin upon rinsing as measured by a Skin RetentionEfficiency Index of at least 0.15 as determined in the In-Vitro SkinRetention Test;

wherein said oil-in-water emulsion has a Zein Solubility below 0.3 asmeasured by the Zein Solubility Test, and a Foam Volume below 5 cc asmeasured in the Solution Shake Test;

wherein said process comprises:

-   -   (i) mixing structured oil phase and aqueous phase comprising        dispersion stabilizer to form droplets of an aqueous solution        containing oil mixture having wt. average droplet size of larger        than 100 microns, preferably larger than 300 up to about 5000        microns as a practical limitation and theoretically even larger;        and    -   (ii) passing said mixture through an in-line screen (e.g., a        screen within the pipe) having an opening of up to 2000        micrometers to make oil droplets of about 20 to 300 microns in        size.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The composition made by the process described herein is designed for useas part of the bathing process to essentially treat the skin after ithas been cleansed but while it is wet. To be of most utility, thecomposition should behave in an optimal fashion when it is used. Firstlythe composition should be capable of depositing its beneficialingredients quickly on the wet skin after the composition is applied.The beneficial agents should only deposit on the skin during activerubbing, or there is a chance it will cause a slipping hazard. Secondly,the beneficial agents should be such that it is perceived to be quicklyabsorbed by the wet skin much like a conventional lotion is perceived toabsorb on dry skin following rubout. Thirdly, the benefit agents shouldbe substantively retained on the skin following further rinsing as wouldoccur by a consumer rinsing off excess material, or casual exposure tothe shower stream. Finally, the composition should confer desirablebenefits to the skin that last longer than a few minutes while providinga clean and non-greasy/oily feel and appearance after bathing.

It should be understood that the terms “substantial retention” and“non-greasy/oily feel” are somewhat relative variables because they aresubject to the variability of human preference. For example, someconsumers, especially those with dry skin, appreciate a highly unctuousskin feel while others have an aversion to any perception of oiliness(oily skin consumers). Furthermore, the optimum level of materialretention and skin lubricity are also dependent on skin color andoverall skin condition. Consequently it is not practical and in fact notdesirable to place overdue limitations on retention and lubricitybecause the compositions of this invention are desirably tailored tomeet the needs and preferences of different types of consumers. Notwithstanding this limitation, it is desirable that the compositions arecapable of efficient delivery of benefit agents to the skin.

It is possible to achieve the optimal behavior described above with acomposition employing specific aqueous dispersions of structured oilsthat meet specific functional criteria.

The elements of the invention and their functional properties aredescribed in more detail below.

Aqueous Phase

The aqueous phase generally comprises 50 to about 97 wt. % of thecomposition and can be predominantly water. The aqueous phase is thecontinuous phase of the instant composition in which the structured oilphase is dispersed. The aqueous phase contains the dispersion stabilizer(discussed below), and optionally such ingredients as preservatives,wetting agents, auxiliary emulsifiers and various optional benefitagents (see below)

A Structured Oil Phase

The structured oil phase comprises two essential components: a skincompatible oil, and a structurant that can form a stable network at atemperature below 35° C.

Skin Compatible Oils

A skin compatible oils is defined here as an oil that is liquid at thetemperature at which bathing is carried out that is deemed safe for usein cosmetics being either inert to the skin or actually beneficial. Themost useful skin compatible oils for the present invention include esteroils, hydrocarbon oils, and silicone oils.

Ester oils as the name implies have at least one ester group in themolecule. One type of common ester oil useful in the present inventionare the fatty acid mono and polyesters such as cetyl octanoate, octylisonanoanate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate,myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butylstearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate,glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrateand alkyl tartrate; sucrose ester, sorbitol ester, and the like.

A second type of useful esters oil is predominantly comprised oftriglycerides and modified triglycerides. These include vegetable oilssuch as jojoba, soybean, canola, sunflower, safflower, rice bran,avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, and mink oils.Synthetic triglycerides can also be employed provided they are liquid atroom temperature. Modified triglycerides include materials such asethoxylated and maleated triglyceride derivatives provided they areliquids. Proprietary ester blends such as those sold by Finetex asFinsolv are also suitable, as is ethylhexanoic acid glyceride.

A third type of ester oil is liquid polyester formed from the reactionof a dicarboxylic acid and a diol. An example of polyesters suitable forthe present invention is the polyesters marketed by Exxon Mobil underthe trade name PURESYN ESTER®.

A second class of skin compatible oils suitable for the presentinvention is liquid hydrocarbons. These include linear and branched oilssuch as liquid paraffin, squalene, squalane, mineral oil, low viscositysynthetic hydrocarbons such as polyalphaolefin sold by Exxon Mobil underthe trade name of PureSyn PAO and polybutene under the trade namePANALANE or INDOPOL. Light (low viscosity) highly branched hydrocarbonoils are also suitable.

Petrolatum is a unique hydrocarbon material and a useful component ofthe present invention. Since it is only partially comprised of a liquidfraction at room temperature, it is more properly regarded as either the“structured oil phase” when present by itself or alternatively as the“structurant” (see below) when admixed with other skin compatible oils.

A third class of useful skin compatible oils is silicone based. Theyinclude linear and cyclic polydimethyl siloxane, organo functionalsilicones (alkyl and alkyl aryl), and amino silicones.

Structurant

The second component of the structured oil phase is a structurant. Thestructurant must satisfy two requirements.

Firstly, the structurant must be capable of forming a stable network offinely divided solids in skin compatible oil phase at a temperaturebelow 35° C. This property is critical so that the structured oil isactive during use but is not perceived as gritty. By finely dividedsolids we mean a network comprised of particles of a weight average sizepredominantly below about 25 microns, preferably below 10 microns andmost preferably below 1 micron. By stable, we mean the network survivesat least one month of storage at 25° C. and 35° C.

The second requirement is that the structurant provides structured oilphase with the correct rheological properties. To provide effectivedeposition and retention to the skin, the structured oil phase shouldhave a viscosity in the range of 100 to 5000 poise measured at 1 Sec−1,preferably 200-3000 poise, and most preferably 200-2000 poise asdetermined by Haake rotational viscometer utilizing concentriccylinders.

It is also desirable for the oil phase be pseudoplastic, i.e., to haveshear thinning behavior to facilitate an elegant rub-in of the oil phaseafter it deposits on skin. Thus especially preferred structurants arethose that can meet the above requirements and also produce a structuredoil phases that has a viscosity in the range of 30-200 poise measured at10 sec−1, preferably 40-150 poise at 10 sec−1 measured with Haakeviscometer as noted above.

Structurants meeting the above requirements with the selected skincompatible oil can form 3-dimensional network to build up the viscosityof the selected oils. It has been found that such structured oil phases,i.e., built with the 3-dimensional network, are extremely desirable foruse as wet-skin treatment compositions used in bathing. These structuredoils can deposit and be retained very effectively on wet skin andretained after rinsing and drying to provide long-lasting after washskin benefit without causing a too oily/greasy wet and dry feel. It isbelieved that the highly desirable in-use and after-use properties ofthe such structured oils are due to their shear thinning rheologicalproperties and the weak structure of the network. Due to its highlow-shear viscosity, the solid-network structured oil can stick andretain well on the skin during application of the skin conditioner.After being deposited on the skin, the network yields easily duringrubbing due to the weak structuring of the crystal network and its lowerhigh-shear viscosity.

The structurant can be either an organic or inorganic structurant.Preferred inorganic structurants are hydrophobically modified silica orhydrophobically modified clay with particle size less than 1 micrometer.Examples are Bentone 27V, Bentone 38V or Bentone gel MIO V from Rheox,and Cab-O-Sil TS720 or Cab-O-Sil M5 from Cabot Corporation.

The organic structurants are either crystalline solids or amorphous gelswith molecular weight less than 5,000 Daltons, preferably less than3,000 Daltons.

Preferred organic structurants have a melting point greater than 35° C.,preferably greater than 40° C. Especially preferred structurants arethose that can form a solution with the selected skin compatible oil ata temperature higher than their melting point to form a free flowingclear solution. Upon cooling to the ambient temperature, the organicstructurant precipitate from the oil phase to form a 3-dimensionalcrystal structure providing the physical properties set forth above.

Examples of organic thickeners suitable for the invention are solidfatty acid esters, natural or modified fats, fatty acid, fatty amine,fatty alcohol, natural and synthetic waxes, and petrolatum. Petrolatumis a preferred organic structuring agents.

Particularly preferred organic structurants are solid fatty acid estersand petrolatum. Examples of solid fatty esters are mono, di or triglycerides derivatives of palmitic acid, stearic acid, or hydroxystearicacid; sugar fatty ester or fatty esters of dextrin. Examples of thesepolyol fatty acid esters are described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,427,704,5,472,728, 6,156,369, 5,490,995 and EP patent 398409 incorporated byreference herein. Trihydroxystearin sold under the trade name of THIXCINR from Rheox Corporation is found particularly useful for structuringtriglyceride ester oils.

The level of structurant present in the structured oil phase can be inthe range of 1 to 90% and depends on the type of structurant used andthe nature of the skin compatible oil. For solid organic structurantssuch as trihydroxystearin, the preferred level is 3 to 15%. However, theexact levels used should provide a stable network having the desiredviscosity in the range of 100 to 5000 poise measured at a shear rate of1 Sec−1 and can be readily optimized by one skilled in the art.

The structured oil phase comprising the skin compatible oil(s) and thestructurant(s) described above are dispersed in the aqueous phase toform droplets that have a weight average droplet diameter that is in therange of about 20 to about 500, preferably 20 to 300 microns.

Generally the structured oil phase is present in the wet-skin treatmentcomposition at a level of 3 wt. % to about 50 wt. %, preferably from 4wt. % to about 35 wt. %, and most preferably from 5 wt. % to about 25wt. %.

Dispersion Stabilizer

A third required element of the invention is an emulsion stabilizer(found in aqueous phase). The dispersion stabilizer must provideadequate storage stability to the composition. Since the dispersed phase(i.e., the structured oil phase) has a weight average droplet size thatis greater than 20 microns typically in the range of 20-300 microns itis prone to separate under the action of gravity (creaming orsedimentation depending upon its density). The dispersed structured oilphases of this invention are also prone to stick together and coalesce.Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the stable soldnetwork facilitates coalescence by providing asperities that induce filmrupture. The same property that is useful in achieving efficientdeposition on skin also makes the structured phase prone to instabilityon storage.

The most effective dispersion stabilizers are consequently those thatcan provide an adequate structure to the aqueous phase to immobilize thedroplets thus preventing both gravitational separation and collisionwith other droplets. However, if the dispersion is too stable, thedroplets of structured oil are inhibited from coming into proximity withthe skin and thus effectively depositing. Therefore, the most effectivedispersion stabilizers provided have excellent stability in the bottlebut loose their effectiveness in immobilizing the structured oil whenthey are applied to wet skin.

Aqueous dispersion stabilizers useful in the instant invention can beorganic, inorganic or polymeric stabilizers. Specifically, thecompositions comprise 0.1 to 10% by wt. of an organic, inorganic orpolymeric stabilizer which should provides physical stability of thelarge structured oil droplets, in the surfactant composition at 40° C.for over four weeks.

Inorganic dispersion stabilizers suitable for the invention includes,but are not limited to clays, and silicas. Examples of clays includesmectite clay selected from the group consisting of bentonite andhectorite and mixtures thereof. Synthetic hectorite (laponite) clay usedin conjunction with an electrolyte salt capable of causing the clay tothicken (alkali and alkaline earth salts such as halides, ammonium saltsand sulfates) particularly useful. Bentonite is a colloidal aluminumclay sulfate. Examples of silica include amorphous silica selected fromthe group consisting of fumed silica and precipitated silica andmixtures thereof.

Organic dispersion stabilizer are defined here as organic molecules thathave a molecular weight generally lower than 1000 Daltons and form anetwork in the aqueous phase that immobilizes the dispersed structuredoil phase. This network is comprised either of amorphous solids,crystals, or liquid crystalline phase. Suitable organic dispersionstabilizers for the instant invention are well know in the art andinclude, but are not limited to any of several types of long chain acylderivatives or mixtures thereof. Included are the glycol mono- di- andtriesters having about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. Preferred glycolesters include the ethylene glycol mono- and distearates, glycerylstearates, palm oil glyceride, tripalmitin, tristearin and mixturesthereof.

Another example of organic dispersion stabilizer are alkanolamideshaving from about 14 to about 22 carton atoms. Preferred alkanolamidesare stearic monoethanolamide, stearic diethanolamide stearicmonoisopropanolamide, stearic monoethanolamide stearate and mixturesthereof.

Still another class of useful dispersion stabilizer is long chain fattyacid esters such as stearyl stearate, stearyl palmitate, palmitylpalmitate, trihydroxystearylglycerol and tristearylglycerol.

Another type of organic dispersion stabilizers is the so-calledemulsifying waxes such as mixtures of cetostearyl alcohol withpolysorbate 60, cetomacriogol 1000, cetrimide; a mixture of glycerolmonostearate with a stearic soap, and partially neutralized stearic acid(to form a stearate gel).

Still another example of a suitable dispersion stabilizing agent is longchain amine oxides having from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms.Preferred amine oxides are hexadecyldimethylamine oxide andoctadecyldimethylamide oxide.

Example of a suitable polymeric dispersion stabilizing agents useful inthe present invention include: carbohydrate gums such as cellulose gum,microcrystalline cellulose, cellulose gel, hydroxyethyl cellulose,hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcarboxymethyl cellulose, carrageenan, hydroxymethyl carboxypropylcellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, guar gum, gum karaya, gumtragacanth, gum arabic, gum acacia, gum agar, xanthan gum and mixturesthereof. Preferred carbohydrate gums are the cellulose gums and xanthangum.

An especially preferred types of polymeric dispersion stabilizer agentinclude acrylate containing homo and copolymers. Examples include thecrosslinked poly acrylates sold by B.F. Goodrich under the CARBOPOLtrade name; the hydrophobically modified cross linked polyacrylates soldby B.F. Goodrich under the PEMULEN trade name; and the alkali swellableacrylic latex polymers sold by Rohm and Haas under the ARYSOL or ACULYNtrade names.

The above dispersion stabilizers can be used alone or in mixtures andmay be present in an amount from about 0.1 wt. % to about 10 wt. % ofthe composition.

Auxiliary Benefit Agents

The composition can optionally contain a variety of auxiliary agents.These auxiliary agents: functional skin benefit agents; sensorymodifiers; and miscellaneous ingredients such as essential oils, andpreservatives.

Functional Skin Benefit Agents

These materials function to in some way improve the state of the skinand include the following:

-   -   a) humectants used to retain water in the skin such as glycerol,        sorbitiol, glycols, polyols, urea and their mixtures;    -   b) lipid barrier repair agents that are useful for        strengthening, and replenishing the stratum corneum's barrier        lipids such as cholesterol, cholesterol esters, ceramides, and        pseudoceramides;    -   c) additional occlusive agents used to hold water in the stratum        corneum such as natural and synthetic waxes and polyethylene;    -   d) vitamins used to strengthen the skin such as vitamin A, B,        and E and vitamin alkyl esters, including vitamin C alkyl        esters;    -   e) anti-aging agents used to exfoliate and stimulate cell        turnover such as        and        hydroxy acids, retinol, and retinol esters;    -   f) Sunscreens such block the suns harmful UV rays such as octyl        methoxy cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane        (Parsol 1789), ultra-fine TiO2, ZnO and their mixtures;    -   g) skin lightening agents used to increase the lightness on the        skin such as niacinamide;    -   h) antimicrobial agents such as        2-hydroxy-4,2′,4′-trichlorodiphenylether (Triclosan or Ergasan        DP300) and 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TCC);    -   i) antioxidants used to reduce photodamage and premature damage        due to excessive oxidation such as ascorbyl palmitate, Vitamin E        acetate, butylated hydroxyanisole and;        2,6-ditertiarybutylpara-cresol;    -   j) insect repellants such as N,N-dimethyl-m-toluamide,        3-(N-butyl-Nacetyl)-aminopropionic acid, ethyl ester and        dipropyl isocinchomeronate.        -   mixtures of any of the foregoing components.            Sensory Modifiers

These materials improve the aesthetic properties of the formulation andcan be mixed with the structured oil phase before adding it into theaqueous phase or can be added to the aqueous phase to form a solution ordispersion. Suitable sensory modifiers include:

-   -   a′) emollient oils and emollient waxes used to improve the feel        of the composition after rubbing into the skin, including:        silicone resins, natural and synthetic waxes such as carnauba,        spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin and derivatives thereof; higher        fatty acids and alcohol    -   b′) skin conditioning polymers that can alter the wet and dry        skin feel provided by the composition. Such polymers include        non-ionic polymers such as polyethylene oxide, polyvinyl        alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrollidone, anionic polymers such as        polyaspartate, poly maleates and sulfonates, cationic polymers        and their mixtures. Suitable cationic polymers include Guar        hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Quaternium-19, -23, -40, -57,        poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), poly (dimethyl butenyl        ammonium chloride)-, w-bis (triethanolammonium chloride), poly        (dipropyldiallylammonium chloride), poly (methyl-beta        propaniodiallylammonium chloride), poly (diallylpiperidinium        chloride), poly (vinyl pyridinium chloride), quaternised poly        (vinyl alcohol), quaternized poly        (dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate), and water insoluble polymers        especially useful to modify wet skin feel such as polybutene,        polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polybutadiene, polyalphaolefin and        polyesters; and mixtures thereof.    -   c′) perfumes used to provide in-use fragrance and lingering        fragrance on skin;    -   d′) distributing agents (also called a wetting agents) used to        help the wet-skin treatment composition spread easily and        uniformly over the body and reduce drag such as alkyl betaines,        nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, and high molecular        weight polyethene oxide.    -   e′) Emulsifying and dispersing agents that can reduce        interfacial especially useful during processing. Some exemplary        materials include: alkyl glycosides, other nonionic, cationic,        and zwitterionic surfactants    -   f′) chemosensory used to provide pleasant sensations like        cooling such menthol and its derivatives, and certain essential        oils well known in the art.        Miscellaneous Agents

The composition can also contain a various essential oils such as,jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter orange peel, ryu, turpentine,cinnamon, bergamot, citrus unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove,hiba, eucalyptus, lemon, starflower, thyme, peppermint, rose, sage,menthol, cineole, eugenol, citral, Citronella, borneol, linalool,geraniol, evening primrose, thymol, spirantol, pinene, limonene andterpenoid oils. Further useful classes of materials are preservatives,chelating agents and antioxidants. These materials are especiallyimportant when triglyceride ester oil are employed. Suitablepreservatives for the present composition include:dimethyloldimethylhydantoin (Glydant XL1000), parabens, sorbic acid etc.Suitable chelators include tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate(EDTA) sold under the trade name VERSENE 100XL, and hydroxyethilidenediphosphonic acid sold under the trade name Dequest 2010 or mixtures inan amount of 0.01 to 1%, preferably 0.01 to 0.05%. An example of anantioxidant is butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT). Chelating agents areuseful in binding metal ions including Ca/Mg as well as transition metalions.

Still other useful agents include organic solvents, such as ethanol;auxiliary thickeners, coloring agents, opacifiers and pearlizers such aszinc stearate, magnesium stearate, TiO₂, EGMS (ethylene glycolmonostearate) or Lytron 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer); all of whichare useful in enhancing the appearance or cosmetic properties of theproduct.

The compositions described above are meant to be applied to wet-skin asa penultimate step or one of the last steps in the bathing process. Theyare also meant to leave a significant portion of their beneficial agentsin contact with the skin. To be most effective in this regard thecompositions should satisfy three additional requirements.

The first additional requirement is that the composition should beextremely mild to the skin and should not have any harsh surfactantspresent, which have the potential to be retained and irritate the skinif not completely rinsed. This requirement can be met by ensuring thatthe composition be below a critical value in a test that correlates withthe mildness of an aqueous composition. Such a test is the ZeinSolubility Test (described in the Methods Section below) that is wellknown in the art as a rapid screen for the irritation potential of acomposition especially one that contains surface active materials (W.Kastner and P. J Frosh, skin irritation of various anionic surfactantsin the duhring-chamber-test on volunteers in comparison with in-vitroand animal test methods, Fette Seifen Anstrichhmittel Volume 83, Pages33-46 (1981)). Thus, the wet-skin compositions suitable for the presentuse must have a Mildness Index less than 0.3 wt. % and preferably lessthan 0.1 wt. % as measured by the Zein Solubility Test: a value that isessentially close to the Zein solubility of pure water, about 0.04 to0.06 wt. %.

The second additional requirement is that the compositions beessentially non-foaming. The reason for this requirement is related tohuman behavior based on experience. Although the treatment compositionsdescribed herein are highly substantive, it is important to minimize howvigorously (time and mechanical action) the skin is rinsed beforebathing is concluded. Foam is a cue that foreign detergent has beenapplied to the skin and must be removed via vigorous rinsing otherwiseit will be left behind. Thus, the wet-skin treatment compositionsdescribed herein should have a Foaming Volume of less than 5 CC,preferably less than 2 CC and most preferably less than 1 CC whenmeasured by the Solution Shake Test described below in the MethodsSection below.

The last additional requirement is that the wet-skin treatmentcomposition actually deposits sufficient material on the wet skin to beeffective and that this deposited material be retained after rinsing andor towel drying. The method used to measure the ability of thecomposition to be retained on the skin during rinsing is the In-vitroSkin Retention Test described in the Methods Section. Thus, to be aneffective wet skin treatment, the composition should have a SkinRetention Index of at least 0.15, preferably greater than 0.25 and mostpreferably greater than 0.5.

According to the process of the invention for making the compositionsnoted above, the aqueous phase (comprising dispersion stabilizer) ismixed with structured oil phase with sufficient agitation to formdroplets of aqueous solution containing oil mixture having weightaverage droplet size of larger than 100 microns, preferably larger than300 microns up to about 5000 microns as a practical limit.

Afterwards, the predispersion so formed is passed through a screen orscreens having an opening of up to about 2000 microns in order to makeoil drops of about 20 to 300 microns in size.

It is preferred to make the oil predispersion using a mixing tank bygently mixing the structured oil with the aqueous phase containingdispersion stabilizer to form large oil-in-water dispersion with weightaverage particle size larger than 300 μm. A mixing tank with a recycleloop is preferred to get uniform oil-in-water dispersion at gentlemixing condition. The large oil predispersion is then passed through ascreen or screens with desirable openings after being discharged andpacked in the bottles to make oil drops of about 20 to 300 microns insize.

Test Methods

This section describes the test methods that are used to characterizethe wet-skin compositions especially with respect to their irritationpotential,

Zein Solubility Test (Irritation Potential)

The Zein solubility test provided a rapid and convenient screen forirritation potential especially for compositions that contain surfaceactive agents. The procedure is as follows:

-   -   1. Mix 5 g. of the cleanser with 45 g of deionized water using a        magnetic stirrer for 5 to 10 minutes to form an uniform        solution.    -   2. Record the pH of the solution.    -   3. Withdraw about 5 ml of the solution and filter it through        0.45 micrometer filter into a vial for % solid measurement (mark        the solution as blank).    -   4. Add about 2 g of zein to the remaining solution and mix for        60 minutes using a magnetic stirrer. Check the solution every        ten minutes to ensure that there is enough undissolved zein in        the mixture. If most of the zein dissolved, add 1 more gram of        zein into the solution and continue the mixing (always keep zein        in excess but not too much because zein will swells and make the        solution difficult to filter).    -   5. After mixing, let the solution settle for 5 minutes. Withdraw        5 ml of the supernatant in a syringe and filter it through 0.45        micron filter into a vial and mark it as sample. (Centrifuge the        solution at 3,000 rpm for 5 minutes before filtration if the        supernatant is hard to separate).    -   6. Determine the % solid of the blank and the sample by weighing        about 3 to 4 grams of the filtrate in an aluminum dish using an        analytical balance and drying the filtrate overnight in a 75° C.        oven.    -   7. Calculate % solid of zein dissolved in the diluted liquid        solution using the following equation.        % solid of zein solubilised=% solid of sample−% solid of blank        Solution Shake Test (Foaming)

This test provided a simple an convenient measure of the ability of thecomposition to form foam. The test method is as follows:

-   -   1. Mix 2 g of the conditioner with 18 g of deionized water for        about 2 to 3 minutes until it forms an uniform solution.    -   2. Add 10 cc of the above diluted conditioner solution to a 50        cc cylinder (15 cm high, 2.06 cm in diameter).    -   3. Grape the top of the cylinder and sake the cylinder in a up        and down motion 30 times within 8 to 12 seconds.    -   4. Once shaking is over, wait 60 seconds before taking the foam        measurement.    -   5. Measure the foam volume, which is defined as the volume from        the surface of the solution to the top of the foam column.    -   6. Duplicate the run and take the average as the foam volume of        a specific product.

The following compositions are used for reference:

Shaker Test Foam Composition Volume (CC Foam) Dove All-Day MoisturizingBody Wash 26 Oil of Olay Daily Renewal Moisturizing Body Wash 29 Lever2000 Pure Rain Body Wash 43In-Vitro Skin Retention Test

This in-vitro test simulates the ability of the composition when appliedto clean wet skin to be retained after rinsing with water and dryingwith a towel. To accomplish this procedure a UV chromophore, Parsol MCXis incorporated into the oil phase of test compositions and used as thedetection probe.

The test procedure is as follows:

Substrate Preparation

A sample of porcine skin (3 to 4 weeks old female) used as the substrateis washed with 15% NaLES (sodium ethoxy (3 EO) sulfate) solution, rinsedwith tap water, patted dry and shaved. The skin is cut into piecesapproximately 4 cm by 9 cm and stored in the freezer for later use.

Test Procedure

-   1. A 4×9 cm sample of skin as prepared above is washed with 0.2 to    0.3 grams of a 15% NaLES solution for 30 seconds and rinsed with    warm tap water for 30 seconds.-   2. A calculated amount of shower conditioner (at a dose of 3    micrograms per square centimeters) is applied and rubbed in a    circular motion on the skin for 30 seconds.-   3. The skin is then rinsed with tap water for 30 seconds at a flow    rate delivering 13.5 g to 13.8 g of water per second at a    temperature of 30° C.-   4. The skin is patted dry with a paper towel and then left to    air-dry for 5 minutes.-   5. A glass ring of 3 cm in diameter is placed tightly on the skin.-   6. With a mechanical pipette 5 mL of heptane are dispensed into the    ring while holding the ring tautly.-   7. The heptane is mixed on the skin with a transfer pipette by    slowly squeezing the pipette repeatedly for 2 minutes and 30    seconds.-   8. After 2 minutes and 30 seconds are up, the heptane is transferred    from the ring to a small capped vial.-   9. Steps 7-9 are repeated. There should be in total of approximately    10 mL of heptane in the small vial.-   10. The vial is weighed and labeled.-   11. The Parsol MCX concentration in the heptane extract are    determined with a UV spectrometer (Biorad GS 700) using a 1 cm cell    and a wavelength 900 to 1900 Nm.-   12. The amount of Parsol MCX extracted per cm² of porcine skin is    then calculated as follows:    MCX extracted per cm²=Wt. % MCX in heptane×Total Wt heptane    extracted÷7 cm²-   13. The percent of oil retained on the skin is finally calculated    using the following equation and recorded as % retention of oil    after rinsing.

${{Oil}\mspace{20mu}{Retention}\mspace{20mu}{Index}} = \frac{\begin{matrix}{{Amount}{\;\mspace{14mu}}{of}\mspace{20mu}{Parsol}{\;\mspace{14mu}}{MCX}\mspace{20mu}{extracted}} \\{{per}{\;\mspace{14mu}}{cm}^{2}\mspace{20mu}{of}{\;\mspace{14mu}}{porcine}{\;\mspace{14mu}}{skin}}\end{matrix}}{\begin{matrix}{{Amount}{\;\mspace{14mu}}{of}{\;\mspace{14mu}}{Parsol}\mspace{20mu}{MCX}\mspace{20mu}{dosed}} \\{{per}\mspace{20mu}{cm}^{2}\mspace{20mu}{of}\mspace{20mu}{porcine}\mspace{20mu}{skin}}\end{matrix}}$Expert Sensory Panel Evaluation

This evaluation protocol is used to evaluate the sensory properties ofthe wet-skin treatment compositions and employs an expert sensory panel.The methodology is a variant of that initially proposed Tragon andemploys a language generation step.

The procedure is as follows:

-   1. wet hands and forearms under running water for 5 seconds.-   2. grab the soap bar, wet under running water, and generate lather    by rotating the bar 5 times in hand.-   3. put the bar back, apply the lather on the forearm and wash the    forearm for 5 seconds.-   4. rinse the hands-   5. rinse the forearm under the running tap water for 5 seconds.-   6. dispense 0.5 cc product on the forearm from a syringe.-   7. rub the product all over the forearm for 10 seconds.-   8. use the hand to help rinse the forearm under running water for 7    seconds. (evaluate product's rinsing properties and wet-skin feel)-   9. pat dry the hands and the forearm. (evaluate product's skin feel    right after and 15 to 20 minutes after pat dry)

The key attributes evaluated and its definition are summarized asfollows.

Key Attributes Definition of Attributes OILY/GREASY Perception of aslippery substance, light and slick (TOUCH) (oily) to heavy and thick(greasy) WAXY COATING A smooth film with slight hesitation when move thefingers across the skin RINSEABILITY Ease of rinse off the productTACKY/STICKY Resistance/adhesive quality to the skin after product usageDRAG The ability of moving fingers across the skin. (Low drag to highdrag) HYDRATED/ A feeling of moisture being absorbed into skin, skinMOISTURIZED not dry. SOFT Skin surface that yields easily to fingerpressure SMOOTH Ease with which the fingers glide across the surface ofthe skin AMOUNT OF A feeling of product remaining on the surfaceRESIDUAL of skin.

The water used was 40 PPM hardness expressed as PPM CaCO₃.

Controlled Application Dryness Tests

Various controlled application clinical test methods have been developedto quantify the effects of cleansers on the skin, particularly toexamine their relative potential to dry or moisturize the skin and theireffects on skin barrier function. These tests can easily be adapted towet-skin treatment compositions because such compositions areessentially rinse-off treatments and can be applied during testing inmuch the same way as cleansers apart from dosage and latherconsiderations. The tests utilize a combination of subjectiveevaluations (visual skin condition assessment by expert graders) as wellas objective measures, i.e. instrumental biophysical measurements toquantitate treatment induced changes to the skin's barrier function andskin's ability to retain moisture. Several well known alternativetechniques can be employed to visual asses dryness, moisturization, andbarrier function using carefully controlled application protocols. Theseinclude the Leg Wash, the Arm Wash, and the Forearm ControlledApplication Test protocol. These protocols are described below:

Modified Leg Wash Protocol

This protocol is used to examine the effect of wet-skin treatmentcompositions on improving leg dryness. Study design and procedures areas follows:

At least 15 female subjects (35-65 year old) are enrolled into the studyand at least 13 must complete the product application phase. Dove®beauty bar was provided for general cleansing six days prior to thestart of test product application. Subject's were instructed to continuethe use of Dove for home cleansing throughout the study.

On the first day of product application, a template was used to dividedthe subjects' legs into a two 54 cm² sites (upper/lower). Two treatmentsessions per day (morning, afternoon) were performed on days 1-2, andone wash session was performed in the morning on day 3. The washesand/or evaluations were scheduled approximately 4 hours apart.

The test product application procedure was as follows: The test site wasfirst washed for 30 seconds with a standard mild cleansing solution andthen rinsed for 15 seconds under running water. The wet-skin treatmentcomposition (250 uL) was then immediately applied to the skin. Theproduct was manipulated across the test site for 30 seconds, retainedfor 30 seconds, rinsed for 15-seconds, and patted dry. Study personnelperformed all product applications.

Evaluation Methods

Baseline visual assessments are made prior to the start of the productapplication phase, and immediately before each treatment session toevaluate dryness and erythema thereafter. A test site will bediscontinued if a clinical dryness or erythema score of >3.0 is reached,or at the subject's request. If only one leg is discontinued, theremaining leg will continue to be washed according to schedule. The sameevaluator under conditions that are consistent throughout the study willconduct all of the visual evaluations. The 0-4 grading scale shown inTable 1 is used to assess the test sites for dryness and erythema. Tomaintain the evaluator's blindness to product assignment, the visualassessments will be conducted in a separate area away from the productapplication area.

Visual Dryness Grading—Leg Wash application

(Same scale used in Modified Arm Wash Protocol)

Grade Dryness 0 None 0.5 Perceptible dryness, whiteness in lines of theskin (fine white lines) 1.0 Slight flaking/uplifting of flakes (patchyand/or powdered appearance. 1.5 Slight to moderate flaking/upliftingflakes (uniform). 2.0 Moderate flaking/uplifting flakes, (uniform)and/or slight scaling. 2.5 Moderate to severe flaking/uplifting flakesand/or moderate scaling. 3.0 Severe flaking/scaling, uplifting of scalesand/or slight fissuring 3.5 Severe scaling/uplifting scales and/ormoderate fissuring 4.0 Severe scaling/uplifting scales; with severefissuring/crackingData Analysis

If product application has been discontinued on a test site due to adryness or erythema score of ≧3.0 all data (clinical grades) at thatevaluation for that subject are carried forward for the remaining timepoints. Data for the discontinued sites are used such that the lastacceptable reading (i.e. the last fair comparison) is used as theendpoint in the analysis. Actual data for the discontinued sites isrecorded, but not included in the statistical analysis.

The dryness and erythema scales are treated as ordered categorizations;hence, nonparametric statistical methods are used. At each evaluationpoint, the differences in clinical grades (evaluation score subtractingthe baseline score) within each product is evaluated using the WilcoxonSigned-Rank test, Pratt-Lehmann version (Lehmann, E. L. Nonparametrics:Statistical Methods Based on Ranks. San Francisco, Calif.: Holden Day,1975, pg. 130). Statistical significance will be determined at the 90%confidence level (p<0.10). This will indicate if the treatment resultsare statistically significant from their baseline score.

Means, median scores, and mean ranks across all subjects for eachtreatment at each evaluation point are calculated and recorded. At eachevaluation point, the differences in clinical grades(evaluation-baseline) for each test product is evaluated using theWilcoxon Signed-Rank test, Pratt-Lehmann version. This indicates if theproducts are statistically significantly different from each other (90%confidence level (p<0.10).

For the instrumental data, the same comparisons are made usingparametric statistical methods. The TEWL and conductance measurementsare averaged separately for each subject, site, and session. For alltreatments, treatment differences are statistically compared using apaired t-test at each evaluation point. Statistical significance will bedetermined at the 90% confidence level (p<0.10).

The data will also be assessed to determine whether one treatmentimpacts skin condition to a greater degree relative to the other testcell through the number of discontinuations. For each attribute, asurvival analysis will examine treatment performance over wash sessions.The analysis will incorporate the number of wash sessions that asubject's treatment site is actually washed in the study. If thetreatment site is discontinued, then the site's survival time isdetermined at that evaluation. An overlay plot of the estimated survivalfunction for each treatment group will be examined. The Log-Rank teststatistic will be computed to test for homogeneity of treatment groups.This test will tell if the survival functions are the same for each ofthe treatment groups. Also, the number of wash sessions survived by atreatment site during the study (prior to the possible discontinuationof that side) will be compared between treatments via a paired t-test,using the test subject as a block.

If dryness and erythema rank scores are also assigned at eachevaluation, the treatments will be compared with respect to the rankscores by application of the Friedman's test on the ranks, with subjectacting as a block [ref. Hollander, Myles and Douglas A. Wolfe.Nonparametric Statistical Methods. New York, N.Y. John Wiley & Sons,1973, pp. 139-146].

At each evaluation, if Friedman's test examining treatment effects issignificant at a p-value of 0.05 or other preselected level, thenmultiple comparison tests comparing each pair of treatments will beperformed. For comparison of all possible pairs of treatments, theprocedure documented in Hollander and Wolfe pp. 151-155 will be used.This test is based on the Friedman rank sums. For comparison oftreatments vs. a control, the procedure documented in Hollander andWolfe pp. 155-158 will be used.

Modified Standard Arm Wash Protocol

This test has been described in detail and validated by Sharko et al forcleansers and is easily adapted for rinse-off wet skin treatmentcompositions (Arm wash evaluation with instrumental evaluation—Asensitive technique for differentiating the irritation potential ofpersonal washing products, J. Derm. Clin. Eval. Soc. 2, 19 (1991)). Adescription of the protocol follows:

Subjects report to the testing facility for the conditioning phase ofthe study, which consists of using an assigned marketed personal washingcleanser for general use at home, up to four days prior to start of theproduct application phase. On Day 1 of the product application phase, avisual assessment is made to determine subject qualification. Subjectsmust have dryness scores≦1.0 and erythema scores≦0.5, and be free ofcuts and abrasions on or near the test sites to be included in theproduct application phase. Subjects who qualify to enter the productapplication phase will be instructed to discontinue the use of theconditioning product and any other skin care products on their innerforearms, with the exception of the skin cleansing test formulationsthat are applied during the testing visits. During the five (5) dayproduct application phase of the study, visual assessments for drynessand erythema are conducted prior to each wash session. Wash sessions areconducted 4 times daily, approximately 1.5 hours apart for the firstfour (4) days. On the last day, there are two (2) wash sessions followedby a final visual evaluation three hours after the final wash. Eachapplication consists of a one application of the rinse-off treatmentcomposition. Up to a total of 18 washes and 19 evaluations performed inthis protocol. Instrument measurements are taken at baseline, at varioustime points after the application and rinsing phase.

Application Procedure:

-   -   1. Timer is set to designated application time    -   2. The left test site (volar forearm) is washed with a control        cleanser (e.g., 1 minute), and rinsed with warm water (90°-100°        F.).    -   3. Treatment product is dispensed, and the timer is started.    -   4. The site is treated in a back and forth motion, one stroke        per second (a stroke is from the inner elbow to the wrist and        back to the inner elbow) for the designated time.    -   5. The fingertips are re-wet at the midpoint of application,        i.e., at 30 sec, for a one minute application.    -   6. The site is rinsed with warm running water and patted dry.    -   7. The above procedure (1-6) is repeated for the right test        site.        Evaluation Methods

Baseline visual assessments are made prior to the start of the productapplication phase, and immediately before each wash session to evaluatedryness. The same evaluator under conditions that are consistentthroughout the study will conduct all of the visual evaluations. The 0-4grading scale that is essentially identical to that described for theLeg Wash Protocol above, shown in is used to assess the test sites fordryness. To maintain the evaluator's blindness to product assignment,the visual assessments will be conducted in a separate area away fromthe product application area.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) measurements for barrier integrity aremade on each test site using a Servomed Evaporimeter EP1 and/or EP2 atthe beginning (baseline value), and at various time points after productapplication, and at the end of the study. Two consecutive fifteen-secondreadings per test site are taken for each TEWL evaluation, following athirty-second equilibration period. (See method description below)

Skin conductance is measured using a SKICON-200 instrument, with anMT-8C probe, and/or Capacitance is measured using a Corneometer, at thebeginning (baseline value), and at the end of the product applicationphase or at the time of discontinuation (final value). These methodsprovide objective measures of stratum corneum hydration. Threeconsecutive readings per test site will be taken and averaged (Seemethod description below)

Data Analysis

The dryness is treated as ordered categorizations; hence, nonparametricstatistical methods are used. At each evaluation point, the differencesin clinical grades (evaluation score subtracting the baseline score)within each product is evaluated using the Wilcoxon Signed-Rank test,Pratt-Lehmann version (Lehmann, E. L. Nonparametrics: StatisticalMethods Based on Ranks. San Francisco, Calif.: Holden Day, 1975, pg.130). Statistical significance will be determined at the 90% confidencelevel (p<0.10). This will indicate if the treatment results arestatistically significant from their baseline score.

Means, median scores, and mean ranks across all subjects for eachtreatment at each evaluation point are calculated and recorded. At eachevaluation point, the differences in clinical grades(evaluation-baseline) for each test product is evaluated using theWilcoxon Signed-Rank test, Pratt-Lehmann version. This indicates if theproducts are statistically significantly different from each other (90%confidence level (p<0.10).

For the instrumental data, the same comparisons are made usingparametric statistical methods. The TEWL and conductance measurementsare averaged separately for each subject, site, and session. For alltreatments, treatment differences are statistically compared using apaired t-test at each evaluation point. Statistical significance will bedetermined at the 90% confidence level (p<0.10).

The data will also be assessed to determine whether one treatmentimpacts skin condition to a greater degree relative to the other testcell through the number of discontinuations. For each attribute, asurvival analysis will examine treatment performance over wash sessions.The analysis will incorporate the number of wash sessions that asubject's treatment site is actually washed in the study.

If dryness rank scores are also assigned at each evaluation, thetreatments will be compared with respect to the rank scores byapplication of the Friedman's test on the ranks, with subject acting asa block [ref. Hollander, Myles and Douglas A. Wolfe. NonparametricStatistical Methods. New York, N.Y. John Wiley & Sons, 1973, pp.139-146].

At each evaluation, if Friedman's test examining treatment effects issignificant at a p-value of 0.05 or other preselected level, thenmultiple comparison tests comparing each pair of treatments will beperformed. For comparison of all possible pairs of treatments, theprocedure documented in Hollander and Wolfe pp. 151-155 will be used.This test is based on the Friedman rank sums. For comparison oftreatments vs. a control, the procedure documented in Hollander andWolfe pp. 155-158 will be used.

The Modified Arm Wash Protocol described above is also easily modifiedto utilize 4 sites (2 on each arm) instead of two.

Transepidermal Water Loss Test (TEWL)

The Derma Lab Model #CR 200001-140 was used to quantify the rates oftransepidermal water loss following the procedures similar to thoseoutlined by Murahata et al (“The use of transepidermal water loss tomeasure and predict the irritation response to surfactants” Int. J. Cos.Science 8, 225 (1986)). TEWL provides a quantitative measure of theintegrity of the stratum corneum barrier function and the relativeeffect of cleansers.

The operating principle of the instrument is based on Fick's law where(1/A)(dm/dt)=−D(dp/dx)whereA=area of the surface (m²)m=weight of transported water (g)t=time (hr)D=constant, 0.0877 g-1 h-1 (mm Hg)-1 related to the diffusioncoefficient of waterp=partial pressure of water vapor in air (mm Hg)x=distance of the sensor from the skin surface (m)

The evaporation rate, dm/dt, is proportional to the partial pressuregradient, dp/dx. The evaporation rate can be determined by measuring thepartial pressures at two points whose distance above the skin isdifferent and known, and where these points are within a range of 15-20mm above the skin surface.

The general clinical requirements are as follows:

-   -   1. All panelists are equilibrated for a minimum of fifteen        minutes before measurements in a test room in which the        temperature and relative humidity are controlled.    -   2. The test sites are measured or marked in such a way that pre        and post treatment measurements can be taken at approximately        the same place on the skin.    -   3. The probe is applied in such a way that the sensors are        perpendicular to the test site, using a minimum of pressure.

Probe Calibration is achieved with a calibration set (No. 2110) which issupplied with the instrument. The kit must be housed in athermo-insulated box to ensure an even temperature distribution aroundthe instrument probe and calibration flask.

The three salt solution used for calibration are LiCl, [MgNO₃]₂, andK₂SO₄. Pre-weighed amounts of slat at high purity are supplied with thekit instrument. The solution concentrations are such that the threesolutions provide a RH of ˜11.2%, ˜54.2%, and ˜97% respectively at 21°C.

General use of the instrument is as follows:

-   -   1. For normal studies, instrument readings are taken with the        selector switch set for 1-100 g/m2 h range    -   2. The protective cap is removed from the probe and the        measuring head is placed so that the Teflon capsule is applied        perpendicularly to the evaluation site ensuring that a minimum        pressure is applied from the probe head. To minimize deviations        of the zero point, the probe head should be held by the attached        rubber-insulating stopper.    -   3. Subject equilibration time prior to prior to evaluation is 15        minutes in a temperature/humidity controlled room.    -   4. The probe is allowed to stabilize at the test site for a        minimum of 30 seconds before data acquisition. When air drafts        exist and barrier damage is high it is recommended to increase        the stabilization time.    -   5. Data is acquired during the 15 seconds period following the        stabilization time.        Skin Hydration Test

The Corneometer CM820PC (Courage & Khazaha, Kohl, Germany) is a devicewidely used in the cosmetic industry. It allows high frequency,alternating voltage electrical measurements of skin capacitance to besafely made via an electrode applied to the skin surface. The parametersmeasured have been found to vary with skin hydration. However, they mayalso vary with many other factors such as skin temperature, sweat glandactivity, and the composition of any applied product. The Corneometercan only give directional changes in the water content of the upperstratum corneum under favorable circumstances but even here thequantitative interpretations may prove misleading.

A widely used alternative is the Skicon Skin conductance Meter (I.B.S.Co Ltd. Shizuoka-ken, Japan).

Panelist Requirements for either instrument are as follows:

-   -   1. Subjects should equilibrate to room conditions, which are        maintained at a fixed temperature and relative humidity for a        minimum of 15 minutes with their arms exposed. Air currents        should be minimized.    -   2. Physical and psychological distractions should be minimized,        e.g., talking and moving around.    -   3. Consumption during at least 1 hour before measurement of hot        beverages or of any products containing caffeine should be        avoided.    -   4. Panelists should avoid smoking for at least 30 minutes prior        to measurements.        Operating Procedure    -   1. The probe should be lightly applied so as to cause minimum        depression of the skin surface by the outer casing. The        measuring surface is spring-loaded and thus the probe must be        applied with sufficient pressure that the black cylinder        disappears completely inside the outer casing.    -   2. The probe should be held perpendicular to the skin surface.    -   3. The operator should avoid contacting hairs on the measure        site with the probe.    -   4. The probe should remain in contact with the skin until the        instrument's signal beeper sounds (about 1 second) and then be        removed. Subsequent measurements can be made immediately        provided the probe surface is known to be clean.    -   5. A minimum of 3 individual measurements should be taken at        separate points on the test area and averaged to represent the        mean hydration of the site.    -   6. A dry paper tissue should be used to clean the probe between        readings.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Retention of Oil when the Dispersed Phase is aStructured Oil

This example illustrates that structuring the skin compatible oil with anetwork dramatically improves its ability to be retained on wet skinafter rinsing. The example also illustrates the high efficiency ofretention of the inventive composition compared to the use of baby oil—aconventional composition often applied to wet skin during bathing.

Four samples with composition given in Table 1 were prepared to showeffect of oil viscosity on deposition efficiency. All the samplescontain same amount of oils (15 wt. %) with droplet size in the range of2 to 300 microns. Samples were prepared using the method described asfollow. An oil premix containing all the emollient oils in theformulation (sunflower seed oil, Parsol MCX, petrolatum, polybutene ortrihydroxystearin) is prepared by mixing the oils at 70 to 85° C. toform a clear uniform mixture. The oil mixture is then cooled below 40°C. to form a viscous oil mixture before adding into the formulation. Ina separate mixer, a thickened aqueous solution containing water solublepolymer (Xanthan Gum or Carbopol), surfactants, glycerin, perfume andGlydant plus with a pH in the range of 6.5 to 7.0 was prepared. 15 partsof the oil premix was then injected into 85 parts of the thickenedaqueous solution using a syringe. The aqueous solution containing lumpsof oil mixture was then passed through a screen to make the finalproduct containing large oil droplets with size in the range of 20 to300 microns. Screen with openings of 200 micrometer is used for Examples1B, 1C and 1D. Screen with openings of 1000 micrometer is used forExample 1A. Example 1A contains droplets of low viscosity oil, a mixtureof sunflower seed oil and Parsol MCX with viscosity less than 200centistokes at 1 rps. Examples 1B, 1C and 1D contain viscose oil withviscosity higher than 20,000 centistokes at 1 rps. The mixture of lowviscosity oils (Parsol MCX and sunflower seed oil) is thickened eitherwith trihydroxystearin (Example 1D) or with petrolatum (Example 1B and1C). A comparative example (Comparative Example 1) contains neatsunflower seed oil mixed with Parsol MCX was also used for comparison.

TABLE 1 Comparative Example 1A Example 1B Example 1C Example 1D Example1 Xanthan Gum 0.43 0.43 — — — Keltro CG-RD Carbopol — — 0.43 0.43 —Pemulene TR1 KOH — — 0.24 0.24 — Sunflower seed oil 11.25 — 4.5 12.6 90(Triglyceride oil) Petrolatum — 7.50 9.0 — — Indopol H1500 — 3.75 — — —Polybutene Thixcin R — — — 0.9 — (trihydroxystearin) Parsol MCX 3.753.75 1.5 1.5 10 Na Laureth (3) sulfate 0.9 0.9 — — — Na cocoamidopropyl0.45 0.45 — — — betaine Alkyl polyglucoside — — 0.85 0.85 — Plantarem2000 Glycerin 5.0 5.0 4.3 4.3 — Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.34 0.34 — Glydant plux0.2 0.2 0.17 0.17 — D I water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 0.00 OilViscosity (Poise) @ 0.15 380 560 1800 0.15 1 Sec − 1 Skin RetentionEfficiency 0.0343 0.644 0.377 0.455 0.12 Index (after rinsing based onParsol MCX) pH: 6.5 to 7.0

Deposition efficiency of these samples determined using the methoddescribed in the deposition protocol section is summarized in the tableabove. The result clearly show that oil retention of the wet-skintreatment composition provide a greatly enhanced retention when the oilphase is structured by a solid network and when the dispersed structureoil phase has the viscosity and droplet size set forth herein. Incontrast unstructured oil phases (comprised of Parsol MCX or sunflowerseed oil) even when at the correct droplet size are not efficientlydeposited. Compare Samples 1B, 1C and 1D with Sample 1A. The skinretention efficiency for all the compositions containing large dropletsof structured oil phase is higher than 0.35 and is more than a factor of10 higher than the unstructured oil phase containing dispersion and isabout a factor of 3 to 5 higher than the comparative example of babyoil—a widely used shower treatment.

Example 2 Effect of Particle Size of Structured Oil Phase on OilRetention

This example illustrates the skin retention of wet-skin treatmentcompositions whose dispersed phase falls within the preferred particlesize range.

Four samples with the composition same as Example 1B of Example 1 buthaving different particle sizes were prepared to show the effect ofparticle size on oil retention after rinsing. The particle size wasmeasured using Malvern Mastersizer X. Effect of droplet size on oilretention is summarized at the table below. Particle size has a bigeffect on oil retention of viscous oil droplets. To achieve highest skinretention efficiency, the structured oil phase of the wet-skin treatmentcomposition should have an oil droplets size that is larger than 1micron, preferably larger than 5 microns.

TABLE 2 Example Example Example Example Example 2A 2B 2C 2C 2D Particlesize 0.243 um** 4.59 um 22.6 um 189.6 um 399.9 um (micrometers) Oilretention index 0.0216 0.214 0.54 0.61 0.71 after rinsing based onParsol MCX **This sample contains submicron particles of 90% sunflowerseed oil/10% Parsol MCX

Example 3 Effect of Oil Viscosity and Composition on Perceived SensoryProperties

This examples demonstrates an important property of the wet-skincompositions employing structured oil technology disclosed herein.Namely, this technology is perceived to moisturize skin withoutimparting an excessively greasy/oil feel.

Three Examples exemplifying the compositions of the instant inventionwere prepared having the compositions shown in Table 3. Example 3A and3B respectively contain 7.5% and 15% of sunflower seed structured withThixcin R. Example 3C contain 7.5% of sunflower seed oil structured withpetrolatum, fatty acid and Superhartolan. 2 comparative examples and onecommercial shower conditioner are used for comparison. ComparativeExample 3D is a composition containing 7.5% of non-structured sunflowerseed oil; and the comparative Example 3E is a control sample does notcontain any oil but is otherwise identical to the other Example 3compositions. All the compositions were prepared using the methoddescribed in Example 1.

TABLE 3 Comparative Comparative Example 3A Example 3B Example 3C Example3D Example 3E Carbopol 0.46 0.43 0.46 0.46 0.46 Pemulene TR1 KOH 0.240.22 0.24 0.24 0.24 Alkyl polyglucoside 0.925 0.925 0.85 0.925 0.925Plantarem 2000 Glycerin 5.55 4.3 5.55 5.55 5.55 Perfume 0.37 0.34 0.370.37 0.37 Glydant plux 0.18 0.18 0.17 0.18 0.18 D I water 84.7 78.6 84.784.7 92.5 Sunflower seed oil 7.13 14.25 2.25 7.5 0.0 Thixcin R 0.37 0.75— — — Petrolatum — — 4.125 — — Palmitic acid — — 0.75 — — Superhartolan— — 0.375 — — Lather volume by Less than Less than Less than Less thancylinder shake method 5 cc 5 cc 5 cc 5 cc Zein solubility <0.08 wt. %<0.08 wt. % <0.08 wt. % <0.08 wt. % 0.05 wt. % Oily/greasy None MediumLow None None Wet-skin feel Moisturized skin feel Medium Medium toMedium None None 15 to 20 minutes after high rinsing and pat dry

An expert sensory panel under the standard conditions described in theTest Methods section evaluated the sensory properties of the abovecompositions. Two key sensory properties were assessed: wet-skin feelduring rinsing (oily-greasy feel), and skin feel after the skin was dry(moisturized feel). These perceived attributes of the 6 samples by theexpert sensory panel are summarized at the bottom of Table 3. The threecomposition that contain a structured oil phase in the droplet sizerange disclosed herein are perceived to deliver a medium to high levelof moisturization to the skin without excessively oily skin duringrinsing (Examples 3 A-C). The comparative Examples 3 D, and 3E do notprovide a perceivable moisturizing effect on dry skin again illustratingthat it is the presence of the dispersed structured oil phase of thecorrect droplet size that is essential to the performance of thecomposition.

Example 4 Comparison with Commercial Compositions Disclosed in the Art

This example illustrates one advantage of the wet-skin treatmentcompositions disclosed herein over prior art compositions, namely thatthey can provide moisturization without an excessively greasy feelduring use.

An expert sensory evaluation was carried out comparing the compositionof Example 3B (Table 3) with a composition disclosed in the U.S. Pat.No. 5,928,632 that contained mineral oil thickened with a combination ofbutylene/ethylene/styrene and ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymers. Theresults are shown in Table 4.

The composition containing polymer-thickened mineral oil, althoughproviding a medium degree of moisturized skin feel 15 to 20 minutesafter drying was perceived to have very oily/greasy wet-skin feel and tobe difficult to rinse. In contrast, Example 3B provide a higher levelmoisturizing benefit but was easy to rinse and did not feel excessivelyoily/greasy.

TABLE 4 Oil-in-water emulsion Composition of Example according to U.S.3B Pat. No. 5,928,632^(a) Ease of Rinsing Easy to rinse Very difficultto rinse Oily./Greasy Wet-Skin Medium Very high feel Perceived degree ofMedium to high Medium moisturization after drying ^(a)Oil phasecomprised mineral oil and octyl isonanoate and butylene/ethylene/styreneand ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymers.

Example 5 Effect of Oil Composition on Wet-Skin Feel

This example illustrates the use of sensory modifiers to change theperceived wet skin feel of the compositions according to this inventionprepared with various skin compatible oils. In these examples,polybutene (Indopol H1500) was used to modify the wet-skin feel of thedeposited viscous oils. All the samples were prepared according to theprocedures described in Example 1. Polybutene is premixed with thestructured oil phase before adding this phase into aqueous phase. Theresults shown in Table 5 clearly show that the wet-skin feel of providedby the treatment composition can be changed from an oily/greasy feel tonon oily/greasy, very draggy rinse feel by replacing 30 wt. % of thetotal structured oil phase with polybutene. Preferred level and type ofpolybutene to deliver the most desired wet-skin feel depends onconsumer's bathing habit and expectation and can be tailored by oneskilled in the art with minimal experimentation.

TABLE 5 Example Example Example Example 5A 5B 5C 5C Carbopol 0.46 0.460.43 0.43 Pemulene TR1 KOH 0.24 0.24 0.22 0.22 Alkyl polyglucoside 0.9250.925 0.85 0.85 Plantarem 2000 Glycerin 5.55 5.55 5.2 5.2 Perfume 0.370.37 0.34 0.34 Glydant plux 0.185 0.185 0.17 0.17 D I water 84.76 84.777.8 77.8 Sunflower seed oil 2.25 1.58 14.25 12.6 Thixcin R — 0.75 0.9Petrolatum 4.13 2.89 — — Palmitic acid 0.75 0.53 — Superhartolan 0.3750.253 — Indopol H1500 — 2.25 — 4.5 Polybutene Oily/greasy Low NoneMedium None wet-skin feel Draggy wet-skin feel Low High None HighMoisturized skin feel Medium Medium Medium Medium 15 to 20 minutes afterto high to high pat dry

Example 6

This example illustrates the wide range of structurants that can beemployed with various preferred classes of skin compatible oilsdisclosed herein. Same procedure described in Example 1 was used toprepare all the examples. Phase A, a carbopol-structured aqueous phase,and phase B, thickened-oil premix, were prepared first. Phase B was theninjected into phase A using a syringe and passed through screen with 200micrometer opening twice to make in-shower conditioners containing oildroplets with average particle size larger than 5 micrometers. All thesamples are easy to rinse off and provide very good after wash softsmooth moisturizing skin feel.

TABLE 6 EXAMPLES COMPOSITION 6A 6B 6C 6D 6E 6F 6G Phase A Carbopol 0.350.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 Pemulen TR1 KOH 0.189 0.189 0.189 0.1890.189 0.189 0.189 Cocylamidopropyl 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 betaineGlycerin 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 Perfume 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.500.50 0.50 Glydant plux 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 D I water77.26 77.26 77.26 77.26 77.26 77.26 72.26 Phase B Sunflower seed oil5.25 5.25 — — — 6.0 8.0 Isopropylpalmitate — — 6.0 10.5 — — — Mineraloil — — — — 10.5 — — Petrolatum 9.0 9.0 9.0 — — 7.5 12.0 Paraffin wax0.75 — — — — — — (melting point: 53–57° C.) Stearamidopropyl — 0.75 — —— — — dimethylamine (Lipamine SPA) Bentone Gel MIO V — — — 4.5 4.5 — —(hydrophobic clay) Beewax — — — — — 1.5 —

Example 7 Wet-Skin Treatment Composition Providing UV Protection

This example illustrates a wet-skin treatment composition according tothe principles disclosed herein that provides an additional functionalskin care benefits beyond moisturization, namely UV protection. Theprocedures according to Example 1 was used to prepare Example 7 whosecomposition is shown in Table 7. Example 7 contains a common organichydrocarbon UV sunscreen, Parsol MCX that was structured with petrolatumbefore dispersing it in the aqueous phase. Sun protection factor wasdetermined by a standard in-vivo protocol. The results show that thecomposition of Example 7 contains 4% Parsol MCX provided a SPF equal to2.2.

TABLE 7 Example 7 FULL CHEMICAL NAME % ACTIVE Polyacrylic acid polymer0.4 Carbopol KOH 0.21 Alkylpolyglycoside 0.8 Glycerin 6 Petrolatum 12Polybutene 4 2 ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate 4 DMDM HYDANTOIN 0.2Perfume 0.5 Deionized water 71.9 SPF (sun protection factor) 2.2 pH:6.0-7.0

Example 8 Various Compositions

Additional compositions exemplifying the invention are given in Table 8.All compositions have a droplet size between 20 and 200 microns and thestructured oil phase has a viscosity between 200 and 2000 poise at ashear rate of 1 Sec−1.

TABLE 8 EXAMPLES OMPOSITION 8A 8B 8C 8D 8E 8F 8G 8H Oil Soybean oil14.25 — — 10 — 2 — 3 Mineral oil — 4.0 — — — — 5 — Isopropyl palmitate —— 3 — — — 5 — Sunflower seed oil — — 7 — 9.2 10.5 2 — Silicone oil — — 4— — — 3 — Poly alphaolefin oil — — — 4 — — — — Structurant — — — — — — —— Hydrophobic Clay — — — — — 4.5 — — Thixcin R 0.75 — 0.75 1.0 — — — —Petrolatum — 6.0 — — — — — 12 Hydrophobic Silica — — — — 0.8 — 2.0 —Dispersion stabilizer Pemulen TR1 — — 0.3 — — — — 0.5 Xanthan gum 0.40.1 — — — 0.2 — Carbopol ETD2020 — — — 0.3 0.1 0.2 0.1 — Laponite XLS —— — — 0.4 — — — Cab-O-sil — 1.0 — — — — — — Structure Solan — — — — —0.6 — — Emulsifier Alkyl polyglycoside — 0.5 3.0 — — — 0.3 —Cocamidopropyl betaine — — — 0.5 0.1 — — — Na cetearyl sulfate 3.0 — — —— — — — Cetyl alcohol/Ceteareth-20 2.0 — — — — 3.5 5.0 — Benefit agentGlycerol 10 40 3.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Cholesterol — — 2.0 0.1 — — — —Vitamin A and E — — 0.2 0.5 — — — — Niacinamide — — — — 2.0 — — —Triclosan — — — — — 1.0 — — Eucalyptus oil 1.0 — — — — — — — Menthol — —— — — — 0.2 — Parsol MCX — — — — — — — 4.0 Parsol 1789 — — — — — — — 2.0Perfume 0.3 1.0 0.5 0.2 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water to 100 to 100 to 100 to100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 *pH was adjusted with KOH solution to6.0 to 7.0

Example 9 Effect of Wet-Skin Treatment Composition on Visual Dryness

This example demonstrates that the wet-skin treatment compositionsdeliver a significant enduring reduction in the dryness of skin.Examples 9A-9C whose compositions are shown in Table 9 were preparedaccording to the procedures of example 1. These compositions wereevaluated by in the Controlled Application Leg dryness test described inthe methods section. Dryness was evaluated 4 hours after application.The decrease in dryness relative to the initial baseline is shown in thelast row of Table 9. Examples 9B, 9C and 9D provide significantreductions in dryness after 4 hours. The magnitude of the decrease indryness produced by these compositions is twice as large as a controlcomposition (9A) that does not have a structured oil phase.

TABLE 9 Example 9A 9B 9C 9D 253 914 438 760 FULL CHEMICAL NAME % % % %Polyacrylic acid polymer 0.43 0.43 0.43 0.43 Petrolatum — — 12 8.25Superhartolan — — — 0.75 Prifrac 2960 — — — 1.5 Thixcin R — 0.75 — —Sunflower seed oil 15 14.25 3 4.5 Alkylpolyglycoside 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75Glycerin 0.52 0.52 0.52 0.52 KOH 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 DMDM HYDANTOIN 0.20.20 0.20 — Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Deionized water To 100 To 100 To 100To 100 Mean Decrease in Dryness relative 0.203 0.37 0.49 0.47 tobaseline 4 hrs after treatment. (average of 3 days)

Example 10 Effect of Wet-Skin Treatment Composition on TransepidermalWater Loss (TEWL)

This example demonstrates that the wet-skin treatment compositionsdisclosed herein deliver a significant and enduring reduction intransepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Baseline TEWL were obtained before product application. 20 microliterproduct was applied to wet test site (4 cm²) for 30 seconds and allow tostay for an additional 30 seconds. The site was then rinsed for 15seconds using a squeeze bottle and padded dry. The TEWL value wasmeasured again 1 hour after product application. Three subjects weretested and the average results are listed in Table 10.

Examples 10A-10C whose compositions are shown in Table 10 were preparedand evaluated by transepidermal water loss test as described above (seeMethods Section for details). Examples 10A and 10B contain preferredcompositions of the invention, large droplet oil dispersions ofcrystal-thickened sunflower seed oil in a carbopol structured aqueousgel. Example 10C is deionized water used as a control. TEWL wasevaluated 1 hour after application. Temperature and relative humidity ofthe room were 21° C. and 23% RH respectively. The decrease in TEWLrelative to the initial baseline is shown in the last row of the table.Examples 10A and 10B provide reductions in TEWL after 1 hour and theireffects are larger than water (10C).

TABLE 10 Sample 10A 10B 10C FULL CHEMICAL NAME % Active % Active %Active Polyacrylic acid polymer 0.3 0.3 — (Carbopol ETD 2020) Sunflowerseed oil 5.5 9.5 — Thixcin R 0.29 0.50 Alkylpolyglycoside 0.5 0.5 —Glycerin 6.0 6.0 — KOH 0.15 0.15 — Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10 0.10 —Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15 0.15 — Perfume 1.0 1.0 — Deionized waterTo 100 To 100 100 Mean reduction in TEWL (1 hour 1.8 2.4 −1.3 afterproduct application) PH: 6.0 to 7.0 *here, there is increase in waterloss.

Example 11 Effect of Wet-Skin Treatment Composition on Skin Hydration

This example demonstrates that the wet-skin treatment compositionsdisclosed herein deliver a significant and enduring improvement in skinhydration.

Baseline corneometer readings were obtained on the test site beforeproduct application. 20 microliters product was applied to wet test site(4 cm²) for 30 seconds and allow to stay for an additional 30 seconds.The site was then rinsed for 15 seconds using a squeeze bottle and paddried. One hour after product application, the test sites were wiped toremove surface oil using dry tissue. Corneometer value was thenmeasured. Three subjects were tested and average results were listed inTable 11.

Examples 11A-11C whose compositions are shown in Table 11 were preparedand evaluated by Corneometer test described in the Methods Section.Examples 11A and 11B are the preferred in shower skin conditioner of theinvention. Again, 11C is deionized water used as control. Corneometervalue was evaluated 1 hour after application. Temperature and relativehumidity of the room were 21° C. and 23% RH respectively. The increasein corneometer reading relative to the initial baseline is shown in thelast row of Table 11. Examples 11A and 11B provide increase inCorneometer reading after 1 hour and their effects are larger than water(11C).

TABLE 11 Sample 11A 11B 11C FULL CHEMICAL NAME % Active % Active %Active Polyacrylic acid polymer 0.3 0.3 — (Carbopol ETD 2020) Sunflowerseed oil 5.5 9.5 — Thixcin R 0.29 0.50 Alkylpolyglycoside 0.5 0.5 —Glycerin 6.0 6.0 — KOH 0.15 0.15 — Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.10 0.10 —Metyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15 0.15 — Perfume 1.0 1.0 — Deionized water To100 To 100 100 Mean increase in 10.2 11.0 4.0 Corneometer Reading (1hour after product application)

1. Process for making a wet-skin treatment composition comprising thesteps of: i) forming an aqueous phase comprising less than 1% anionicsurfactant, water and dispersion stabilizer, wherein said dispersionstabilizer is selected from inorganic dispersion stabilizers selectedfrom clays, silicas and mixtures thereof; organic stabilizers having amolecular weight lower than about 1000 Daltons and capable of forming anetwork in the aqueous phase that immobilizes a dispersed structured oilphase and wherein said organic stabilizer is selected from the groupconsisting glycol mono-, di- and triesters having 14 to 22 atoms carbonalone and mixtures thereof; and polymeric stabilizers selected fromcarbohydrate gums, acrylate-containing homo and co-polymers and mixturesthereof, ii) forming a structured oil phase comprising a liquid oilselected from triglycerides, modified triglycerides, or their mixturesand a structurant present in an amount to yield viscosity of 100 to 5000poise measured at 1 sec⁻¹ at 25° C. and which structurant forms a stable3-dimensional network comprising finely divided solid particles having aparticle size below about 25 microns, wherein said particles are presentin said liquid oil at a temperature below 35° C.; wherein saidstructurant is trihydroxystearin; iii) directly mixing said structuredoil phase and said aqueous phase to form a structured oil-in-waterpredispersion having weight average droplet size of greater than about100 microns; iv) passing said structured oil-in-water predispersionthrough a screen having an opening of up to about 2000 micrometers tomake the wet skin treatment composition having oil drops of about 20 to300 microns in size; wherein the wet-skin composition formed has foamingvolume of less than 5 cc when measured by the Solution Shake Test.
 2. Aprocess according to claim 1 wherein the structured oil-in-waterpredispersion has a droplet size greater than about 300 microns.
 3. Aprocess according to claim 1, wherein weight average droplet size of thestructured oil-in-water pre-dispersion is greater than 100 to less thanor equal to 500 microns.
 4. A process according to claim 1, wherein thestructured oil phase has a weight average droplet size in the range of20 to about 200 microns.
 5. A process according to claim 1, wherein thestructured oil phase has a viscosity in the range of 200 to 2000 poiseat a shear rate of 1 sec−1 and a temperature of 25° C.
 6. A processaccording to claim 1: The process according to claim 1, wherein saidcomposition additionally comprises a functional skin benefit agentselected from the group consisting of humectants, occlusive agents,barrier lipids, skin repair agents, UV screens, vitamins, skinlightening agents, antimicrobials, antioxidants, and mixtures thereof.7. A process according to claim 1, wherein said composition additionallycomprises a sensory modifier selected from the group consisting ofemollients, skin conditioning agents, perfumes, distributing agents,chemosensory agents and mixtures thereof.
 8. A process according toclaim 1, wherein said composition additionally comprises a chemicalpreservative.
 9. A process according to claim 1, wherein saidcomposition additionally comprises a chelating agent.
 10. A processaccording to claim 1, wherein said composition additionally comprises anessential oil.
 11. A process according to claim 1, wherein the aqueousphase contains less than 1% of a surfactant.
 12. A process according toclaim 1, wherein the aqueous phase is free of anionic surfactant.
 13. Aprocess according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase is free ofsurfactant.